New York interior designer Martin Raffone shares his favorite finds in Morocco’s Red City
By Sara Lieberman
From the ancient, winding souks of the medina to the super-chic shops of Guéliz, Marrakech is a city of stark contrasts. Donkeys carry loads of fresh mint, while Range Rovers idle outside luxury hotels. If there’s one constant, though, it’s the city’s distinct sense of craftsmanship—courtesy of leather tanners, woodworkers, weavers, and other artisans. Such artistry is what inspired New York interior designer Martin Raffone to divide his time between the two cities eight years ago. “These artisans have been making things for a thousand years,” says Raffone. “They can make modern adaptations of things like Gerrit Thomas Rietveld’s famous Zig Zag chair with Moroccan walnut.” Raffone, whose previous work includes SoHo lofts and Hamptons summer residences, sells such items at Maison LAB, his recently opened home store in Marrakech’s emerging New Town neighborhood. He also offers walnut carving boards, blankets “in crazy-fabulous fluorescent colors,” soaps from France that are “exquisitely packaged,” and easy-to-stack bowls. Here, the design consultant and decorator tells Architectural Digest where he finds beauty and peace in his adopted home.
La Mamounia “This legendary hotel is certainly something to experience, but my favorite hidden part is the beautiful, classically Moroccan pavilion in the center of the hotel’s extraordinary gardens. You can sit quietly and enjoy it with an ice cream from their great little shop or a cocktail from the bar.” From $476/night; mamounia.com
Popham Design “My good friends Caitlin and Samuel Dowe-Sandes are American expats with amazing style. They offer contemporary takes on traditional Moroccan cement tile and sell them here by appointment only. The designs are really modern and chic but still seem to suit the environment.” 7 km Route d’Ourika; pophamdesign.com
Fennwerk “This is Moroccan carpet shopping taken to another level! Nicolas Carré and his partner have designed a gorgeous white showroom where they sell amazing vintage and contemporary carpets that are like works of art. They’re unlike anything you’ll find in the medina.” 148 Boulevard Abdelkrim al Khattabi #B4, Gueliz; fennwerk.com
Radisson Blu “This brand-new hotel in the center of Guéliz is directly across from my shop. They’ve got this beautiful floral store in the lobby with roses everywhere and an entrance that’s paneled in walnut. The lobby, bar, restaurant, and terrace are all on the fourth floor, high above the bustling Boulevard Mohammed V. Drinks outside on the pool terrace are amazing, and the food at the restaurant, Lila, is great. This is definitely my favorite new hangout.” From $183/night; radissonblu.com
Majorelle Garden Gift Shop “Not only is the garden itself one of the most pleasant spaces in the city, but the shop goes way over the top with amazingly beautiful home accessories like leather pillow covers. The quality of the leather—I think it comes from Fez—is extraordinary.” Rue Yves Saint Laurent; jardinmajorelle.com
La Paillote “This restaurant sits in a beautiful garden about an hour from the medina, and is designed like a huge straw-roofed African lodge. The interior has billowy white curtains and chic camplike furniture that seems as if it could all be packed up and put on a camel. It’s like a little Out of Africa design in the middle of Marrakech and a good respite from downtown. The food and service are excellent, too.” 4 km Route d’Amizmiz; lapaillote.ma
Nomad “Certainly one of the hottest, if not the hottest, place to eat in the medina. Great food, modern design, but my favorite part is the upper terrace at sunset. Sitting this high above the craziness of the medina is sublime. It makes it all seem so calm . . . and far away! They have a fabulous lamb burger and a modern lamb tagine served in a rectangular block with potatoes stacked into a log cabin–like cube. They also make a really good mojito since there’s such great mint here.” 1 Derb Aarjan, Rahba Lakdima (Place des Epices); nomadmarrakech.com
The Secret Garden “This garden was recently restored from an ancient merchant’s home, and it’s so perfectly done—both in terms of detail and execution. Even the benches are unique, and small fountains and canals run everywhere! The first section is the exotic part, with gorgeous imported plants. The second section is a traditional Islamic garden, and it is beyond elegant. What gets me the most, though, is that it’s this enormous, open, tranquil space in the middle of the crowded medina.” Rue Mouassine 121; lejardinsecretmarrakech.com
Musée d’Art et de Culture de Marrakech (MACMA) “The gallery spaces at this brand-new contemporary art museum in Guéliz are so elegant. They’re all white with marble floors and have a very Chelsea, New York vibe. Tall doorways frame rooms that are two stories high, all filled with modern art—a rarity in Marrakech.” 61 Rue Yougoslavie/Passage Ghandouri; +212-5244-48326